Growing Pepper plants

As peppers are of tropical origin, plants thrive best when temperatures are warm. Being sensitive to the cold, planting should be delayed until the danger of frost is past in the spring. Ideal temperatures are 70 to 80 degrees F during the day, and 60 to 70 degrees F at night.

Extremely high temperatures (90 degrees F or above) during flowering often results in blossom drop. Fruit that set when temperatures average above 80 degrees F may be small and poorly shaped due to heat injury to the blossoms. Temperatures below 60 degrees F at night will also result in blossom drop.

A shortage of water at bloom time can also result in blossom drop or failure to set fruit. Usually, the plants set satisfactory crops when temperatures are between 65 and 80 degrees F and the soil is well-supplied with moisture. Avoid a soggy, water-logged soil condition when growing peppers.

Pepper plants grow best in warm, well-drained soils of moderate fertility and good tilth. The plants are not particularly sensitive to soil acidity, but best results are obtained in the 6.0 to 6.8 pH range. Adjust soil fertility as indicated by soil test results. Arrangements for soil testing can be made through your local Cooperative Extension office. Fertilizers of a 1-2-2 ratio, such as 5-10-10 or 8-16-16 are often used for growing peppers

Peppers are usually grown in home gardens by using transplants rather than by direct seeding. If you are buying transplants at a local garden center, select stocky, sturdy plants that have 3-5 sets of true leaves. Avoid plants that already have flowers and fruit.

Space plants 18 inches apart in rows 24 inches apart or more, depending on the type of cultivation used. Water plants thoroughly after transplanting. Avoid planting under conditions that will stunt the plants and lead to poor production, such as cold weather, lack of sufficient soil moisture, or lack of sufficient fertilizer.

After the plants are well established, apply a mulch to conserve soil moisture, prevent soil compaction and help suppress weed growth.

Once fruits have begun to set, an additional sidedressing of fertilizer will help promote greater plant productivity. Use a 12-12-12 analysis fertilizer or other high nitrogen fertilizer at the rate recommended on the package.

Control weeds by hand-pulling or shallow cultivation to avoid injury to the plant roots. The incidence of disease can be reduced by proper spacing and by watering early in the day so leaves dry quickly or by using soaker hoses.

Aphids should be controlled as they may carry viral diseases that can affect peppers. European Corn Borers may make small holes near the stem of the pepper and cause internal rot of the fruit. Contact your Cooperative Extension office for the latest control recommendations.

Bell peppers are usually picked green and immature but when they are full-sized and firm. However, if they are allowed to ripen on the plant they will be sweeter and higher in vitamin content. Other peppers are usually harvested at full maturity.

Care should be taken when breaking the peppers from the plants, as the branches are often brittle. Hand clippers or pruners can be used to cut peppers from the plant to avoid excessive stem breakage. The number of peppers per plant varies with the variety. Bell pepper plants may produce 6 to 8 or more fruit per plant.

In general, peppers have short storage life of only one to two weeks. Cool, moist conditions (45 to 50 degrees F) and 85 to 90 percent relative humidity are the ideal storage conditions for peppers.

Did you know?: A sweet green pepper is a pepper that is not yet ripe. Let it grow, and it will turn red. The texture will change markedly, and the flavor will change as well.

Happy Gardening, Terry

Fertilizing Tomatoes

Tomatoes have specific nutritional needs such as nitrogen, phosphate, potash,
calcium, magnesium, potassium and other micro-nutrients to build cell wall
structure and increase plant vigor.

Tomatoes are vigorous, fast growing, and heavy feeding plants which require
fertilization a few times during the season.

Too much nitrogen will create tall, very green, leafy tomato plants with little or
no tomatoes during the season.

Add a complete garden fertilizer at the time the soil is prepared. For tomatoes,
use a fertilizer low in nitrogen (N), high in phosphorous (P) and medium to
high in potassium (K). Among the best analyses for tomatoes are 8-32-16 and
6-24-24. Avoid using ammonia fertilizers such as urea or ammonium nitrate
for tomato fertilization

All fertilizer should be worked well into the top 6 inches of soil.

Proper spacing and staking are essential for healthy plants and good fruit
production. Planting distance depends on the type of tomato grown. Ideal
spacing for home garden tomatoes is generally 24 to 36 inches between plants. Planting closer than 24 inches reduces air circulation around the plants and can trigger disease outbreaks. Large-vine tomatoes should be spaced 36 inches apart. Rows should be 4 to 5 feet apart

Tomatoes grow best when they receive full sunshine. Plant them away from trees and buildings to get highest yield. A tomato plant needs a lot of water, so arrange for easy watering. Select a well-drained area because poor soil aeration leads to root loss and physiological problems such as blossom end rot

A tomato fruit is 95 percent water, so tomatoes need lots of water to grow and develop fruit. They should receive 1 to 2 inches of water a week. If this amount is not received as rainfall, then supplemental irrigation is necessary.
Soak the soil thoroughly when watering. Frequent light waterings will encourage a weak root system. Mulching with straw, clean hay, compost, paper or plastic will reduce soil water evaporation. Plants growing in small containers may need daily waterings

Fertilizer applied at the time of planting will not supply enough nutrients for the entire season. Too much nitrogen in the beginning results in lush vegetative growth and poor fruit set.

Apply the first side-dressing when the first fruits are about one-third grown. Apply 0.5 pound of actual nitrogen per 100 feet of row. This is equivalent to 5 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer. Calcium nitrate is an excellent fertilizer to apply as a side-dress. About 3.5 pounds of calcium nitrate can be side-dressed per 100 feet of row. Mix the fertilizer carefully into the top inch of soil. Don’t get fertilizer on the foliage

Blossom end rot
Very common problem on homegrown tomatoes. It appears as a depressed brownish, rather dry rot the size of a dime to a half dollar on the blossom end of the fruit. It is caused by a calcium deficiency coupled with wide fluctuations in available moisture. Training and pruning may increase blossom end rot. Remove the affected fruit so other fruits on the plant will develop normally, and keep the plants well watered. Provide adequate amounts of water along with good soil drainage. Mulch to maintain a more uniform moisture supply. Avoid cultivating, or hoeing, near the roots of tomato plants. Do not use ammonia fertilizers

Cracking
Fruit cracking varies by the variety. Cracking is usually a problem when soil moisture fluctuates. Tomatoes exposed directly to sunlight are highly susceptible to cracking. Select varieties that are crack-resistant, and keep them adequately watered at all times. Soil drying followed by watering encourages cracking

Flower drop
Especially noticeable on early flowers when the grower is anxious for fruit to set for an early harvest. The problem occurs when night temperatures are lower than 55 degrees F, when day temperatures are higher than 95 degrees F, or when night temperatures remain above 75 degrees F. Hot drying winds may intensify the problem.

Varieties also will differ in their temperature response. Fruit-setting hormones may be used to help set fruit early in the season when the weather is cool. The problem usually disappears and fruits set normally after the weather improves.

Happy Gardening, Terry

Growing Tomatoes

Not all tomatoes are the same

First, determine what kind of space you want to put your tomatoes in.

Tomatoes come in two different types; determinate and indeterminate.

As the name suggests, determinates have vines that grow to a determined

point and stop, making them more compact and bushy (They are

sometimes listed as bush tomatoes).

Indeterminates are more viney than determinates; their vines continue to grow

and need support. Determinates tend to be early; indeterminates are a good bet

for later fruit. Obviously the determinates are better suited for small gardens;

they are also a better bet for containers (although you could always provide a

cage or trellis for indeterminates in containers).

Tomatoes are easy to grow from seed (65° F or 18° C to germinate). Unless you

wish to grow heirloom tomatoes, you may wish to simply purchase your tomato

plants if you want to spare yourself the time and trouble.

Tomatoes require plenty of sun. As for soil, they will grow in just about

anything you throw at them.

They do very well when planted in containers, as soil can easily be changed or

improved from year to year (raised beds are good for much the same reason).

Uniform watering is the key to nice fruit. Even watering can prevent leaf-end

roll, blossom end-rot and "cat-facing", those misshapen crags and cracks on

the stem end of the fruit. Can't say this enough; tomatoes are about the

watering! Skimp on amendments, fertilizers and the rest, but if you want

good tomatoes it's all about the water.

It is OK to plant tomatoes in the garden when the temperature is a consistent

50° F, but plants won't begin to set fruit until the overnight low is regularly

above 55°. Plant tomatoes approximately 2 to 3 feet apart from each other or in

rows three feet apart with the plants spaced at a foot. This is a good method for

indeterminate types in smaller gardens; you must simply keep the plant to a

single main stalk.

Next week, I give you some information on fertilizers, and tips onhow to cure

blossom end rot.

Happy Gardening, Terry

Is It Organic Or Is It Natural ?

Are natural and organic foods the same?

No. The term “natural” is not regulated except for meat and poultry. It applies broadly to

foods that are minimally processed and free of synthetic preservatives; artificial

sweeteners, colors, flavors and other artificial additives; hydrogenated oils; stabilizers;

and emulsifiers. Most foods labeled natural are not subject to government controls

beyond the regulations and heath codes that apply to all foods. The USDA Food

Safety and Inspection Service (FSIS) requires natural meat and poultry to be free

of artificial colors, flavors, sweeteners, preservatives and ingredients. These products

must be minimally processed in a method that does not fundamentally change them.

The label must also explain the use of the term natural such as no artificial ingredients.

Labeling meat and poultry products natural does not refer to how the sources of those

foods were raised. “Organic” refers not only to the food itself, but also to how it was

produced. Foods labeled organic must meet or exceed the regulations of the National

Organic Program (NOP), which took effect October 21, 2002. They must be grown

and processed using organic farming methods that recycle resources and promote

biodiversity. Crops must be grown without using synthetic pesticides, bioengineered

genes, petroleum-based fertilizers and sewage sludge-based fertilizers. Organic

livestock must have access to the outdoors and be given no antibiotics or growth

hormones.

Organic foods may not be irradiated.

Farmers are devoting more acreage to organic products. Organic

cropland and pasture increased from 2.35 million in 2001 to 2.80 million

in 2003, according to the most current data from the USDA's Economic Research

Service (ERS) and Nutrition Business Journal

.

Studies show that organic farming systems can be more profitable than chemical-

intensive ones. The reasons include increased yields in drier areas or times, lower

production costs and higher prices. About 0.5 percent of U.S. crop and pasture land is

used to grow organic foods, according to the ERS. The countries with the highest

percentage: Switzerland (9.0 percent), Austria (8.6 percent), Italy (6.8 percent),

Sweden (5.2 percent), Czech Republic (3.9 percent) and UK (3.3 percent)

Are natural and organic foods healthier or safer than conventional

foods?

Overall, organic food is neither safer nor more nutritious than conventionally

produced food. Many basic organic foods such as milk, butter, ice cream and

meat contain as much fat and calories as their conventional counterparts.

Certain health benefits motivate shoppers to buy natural or organic foods. For instance,

people allergic to foods, chemicals or preservatives can gain relief by switching to

organic foods, personal care products and clothing. To reduce fat and cholesterol in

their diets, consumers can replace meat with products made from organic soy, wheat or

vegetables. Buyers of organic baby foods can avoid the pesticide residues in

conventional baby foods. Some organic foods also have significantly higher levels of

cancerfighting antioxidants, according to a study of corn, strawberries and

marionberries.

The Organic Center found that antioxidant levels averaged about 30 percent higher in

organic food compared with conventional products grown under the same conditions.

Some officials say, however, organic foods can at times be less safe than conventional

foods. In October 2002, USDA’s undersecretary for food safety warned that organic

foods’ lack of preservatives makes them vulnerable to bacteria and parasites.

Proponents of organic foods disagree, stating: Organic farming systems provide

a buffering capacity for the soil and plant surfaces, and therefore may lower the

likelihood of establishment of foodborne pathogens.There is evidence that organically

grown plants have stronger natural protection against plant pathogens than conventional

ones, but needs to be verified.

Certified organic growers follow strict guidelines for safe and hygienic food

production. And they are inspected by independent particles to qualify for certification.

As with all food producers, they must comply with local, state and federal health

standards. Pasteurization, selected use of chlorine and other food safety practices

are allowed and followed in organic production

How does the certification process work?

All organic production and handling operations must be certified by third parties

accredited by the USDA. Producers that sell less than $5,000 worth of organic

products a year do not have to be certified, although they must follow NOP

requirements and document that they do so. The regulations require that products

labeled:

􀂃

“100 percent organic” contain only organic ingredients.

􀂃

“Organic” contain at least 95 percent organic materials. Products in

this or the first category can (but are not required to) display the

USDA Organic seal shown on page 2.

􀂃

“Made with organic ingredients” contain 70-95 percent organic ingredients

and may list up to three of them.

Products with less than 70 percent organic ingredients may not use the

term organic other than to list specific organic ingredients.

Complete information about the NOP, including the regulations and

penalties, is available at http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop/.

Remember to plant it, grow it and enjoy it!

Happy gardening, Terry

Do you know your soil?

Soil testing reveals the composition of soil as well as the nutrients it contains.

If soil is lacking in nutrients or is too acidic or alkaline, it can affect the soil

fertility. Soil testing offers insight to help amend soil PH levels. These

amendments will help grow more crops and healthier plants. Testing the

soil is also critical in preventing over-fertilization, which causes weak growth

of crops. With proper fertilization, you can ensure a stable growth of plants

and also prevent contamination of your groundwater.

Happy Gardening! Terry

Soil must contain three essential nutrients in order for plants to thrive--

nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. These three nutrients are represented

by the three numbers on the front of every fertilizer bag. Purchasing the

proper fertilizer allows you to add only the nutrients your soil needs. Soil

test kits are available at any greenhouse/garden center store to test the nutrient

levels in your soil so that you can formulate the proper fertilization plan

The soil test results will tell you

• soil pH;
• levels of potassium (K), phosphorus (P), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg),
• and sulfur (S);
• organic matter level;
• whether there is lead contamination (for health reasons, all soil samples
• from home gardens and lawns are measured for lead content);
• how much lime and fertilizer (organic or chemical) to add; and
• other management tips for growing your crop.

Test your soil at least once every three years. Keep the test results handy so

that you can monitor any changes in soil fertility.

You may want to test more often if you have a problem area or if you’ve

applied lots of nutrients. Some people test their soil every year to save

money on fertilizer, lime, and other soil amendments. How often you test

depends on the value of your crop and how closely you manage it.

The results of your soil test give recommendations for the next growing

season, so you should test soil well before the growing season, such as in

early spring after the frost is out of the soil, or in the fall before the ground

freezes. A soil test usually takes two to three weeks (from shipping to the

lab to return of results). The results will be the same whether you test in

spring or in fall, but with fall sampling, you will get results back in plenty

of time for planting.

Strawberries Galore!

Choosing Strawberry Plants

There are basically 3 types of strawberry plants to choose from: June bearing,
Everbearing and Day Neutral.

June Bearing strawberries produce a single, large crop per year during a

2 - 3 week period in the spring. June bearers are the traditionally grown plants,

producing a single flush of flowers and many runners. They are classified into

early, mid-season and late varieties. The largest fruits are generally from June

bearing varieties.

Everbearing strawberries produce two to three harvests of fruit intermittently

during the spring, summer and fall. Everbearing plants do not send out many

runners.

Day Neutral strawberries will produce fruit throughout the growing season.

These strawberries also produce few runners. Everbearing and day neutral

strawberries are great when space is limited, but the fruits are usually somewhat

smaller than June bearers

Land Preparation

Strawberries grow best on soils having high organic matter

content and high fertility levels. In raised bed situations, extra

organic matter such as compost, peat,or well-rotted straw and

manure can be incorporated. In the early spring before planting,

the strawberry bed should be fertilized by working in two pounds

of 6-24-24 or an equivalent analysis fertilizer per 100 square

feet. Work this into the top 6 inches of soil. High levels of

phosphates and potash are desirable for best fruit production.

The ground should be worked as soon as possible in the spring,

and the plants should be set early in order to obtain the best

growth and plant production in in the first year.

Planting

Rows should be spaced 36 to 48 inches apart depending upon

the space available in the garden and the intensity of culture

that is practiced. Plants should be set 15 to 24 inches apart

in-row. Wider spacings should be used for earlier plantings

and the narrower space for later plantings. Plants should be

set with the crown (the fleshy part from which the leaves

develop) at the soil surface. If the plants are set too shallow,

roots tend to dry out before they take hold, and the plant may

die. If planted too deep, the plants may also fail to grow.

Firm the soil around the roots, and then water thoroughly.

First Season's Care

Maintain the planting weed-free

throughout the season by cultivating,

hoeing, and hand removal of weeds.

If the garden is large enough, suitable

herbicides may be used. As soon as

flowers appear, they should be pinched

off to promote early, vigorous plant

growth and early formation of runner

plants. The first crop will be harvested

a year from planting and a major

portion of the crop will come from the

mother plants plus the runner plants

which are formed and well-rooted

before August. Runner plants should

be positioned as they develop so that

a density of about 5 plants per square

foot is achieved. The rows should be

maintained no wider than 12 to 18

inches, and when the desired plant

density is reached, all additional

runners should be removed through

cultivation and cutting of runners by

hand within the row.

Harvesting

Berries should be harvested as often

as every other day to maintain top

quality. Pick the berries with the caps

on and with 1/2 inch of stem attached.

Pinch the stem between the thumb

and middle fingernails, while cradling

the berry in the palm of the hand.

Strawberries do not ripen after

harvest, so they should be allowed

to fully ripen before picking. Remove

overripe and rotted berries so that

insect and disease problems can

be minimized. If berries are to be

stored for overnight or longer in

the refrigerator, do not wash them.

Place them in a covered shallow

pan and place in the refrigerator as

soon as possible to cool quickly.

Wash just prior to consumption.

Growing Cool Season Crops

The leafy, cool-season vegetables include broccoli, collards, cauliflower,

kohlrabi, cabbage, spinach, mustard greens, Swiss chard, lettuce, and

Brussels sprouts, which belongs to the Cole crop or cabbage family.

Plant all of these early in the spring as soon as the ground can be worked or in

August for a fall garden. You can plant by direct seeding or by using

transplants. Transplants are preferred with many leafy vegetables as they

establish faster and mature early. Harvest these crops at the right time based

on the edible part of the plant.

The root crops include radishes, beets, carrots, turnips, rutabagas, and

parsnips. These require well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter.

Radishes are the root crop that matures early. Parsnip matures just before

the ground freezes. Prepare a fine seedbed and plant seeds of the root crops

as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. They should be thinned

to the right spacing when plants are two to three inches tall.

Cool-season vegetables thrive when daytime temperatures average between

65°- 80° F, with nighttime temperatures staying above 40° F. Spring and fall

(and winter in some areas) provide perfect conditions for these crops.

Most cool-season vegetables can tolerate a light frost and are generally planted

2-4 weeks before your last frost date in the spring

Harvest by pulling the plants from the ground and trimming off the tops when

necessary. Cool-season veggies grow best at temperatures averaging 15° cooler

than those needed by warm season types.

Since hot temperatures make these vegetables bitter, or cause them to go

to seed, plan your growing seasons to avoid harvesting when the temperatures

climb above 80° F.

Except in coldest climates, plant them in very early spring so the crop will

mature before summer heat settles in, or in late summer for a crop in fall in winter.

In warm regions, plant cool season crops from late summer to early fall for

harvest in late fall, winter, or early spring.

Comments, remarks and followers are always welcome,

Happy Gardening, Terry