New Year

As we approach a new year, let us be thankful for the bounty that our gardens have given us this past 12 months. Looking forward to a new growing season, let's prepare our soil, our hearts and minds for another great harvest.

Just for any of you that might be concerned. I have decided to sell my Greenhouse business, called 'Lil Red Greenhouse ' in Tishomingo, Ok. You can contact me at 1010 N. Kemp Ave., Tishomingo, Ok 73460 or at terryl2k@yahoo.com or call 580-371-8525 for more information.

I have decided to retire from the Greenhouse business, but will continue with this blog, so that all my readers will have all the information they desire to grow the garden of their dreams.

Happy Gardening, Terry

Succession Planting

Succession planting is an excellent way to make the most of an intensive garden. To obtain a succession of crops, plant something new in spots vacated by spent plants. Corn after peas is a type of succession.

Planting a spring, summer, and fall garden is another form of succession planting. Cool season crops (broccoli, lettuce, peas) are followed by warm season crops (beans, tomatoes, peppers), and where possible, these may be followed by more cool-season plants, or even a winter cover crop.

Relaying is another common practice, consisting of overlapping plantings of one type of crop. The new planting is made before the old one is removed. For instance, sweet corn may be planted at 2-week intervals for a continuous harvest. This requires some care, though; crops planted very early are likely to get a slower start because of low temperatures. In the case of corn, it can be disastrous to have two varieties pollinating at the same time, as the quality of the kernels may be affected. Give early planted corn extra time to get started, for best results.

Another way to achieve the same result is to plant, at once, various varieties of the same vegetable; for example, you can plant an early-season, a mid-season, and a late-season corn at the same time and have a lengthy harvest.

Starting seeds indoors for transplanting is an important aspect of intensive gardening. To get the most from the garden plot, a new crop should be ready to take the place of the crop being removed. Several weeks may be gained by having 6-inch transplants ready to go into vacated areas. Don't forget to recondition the soil for the new plants.

Some suggested succession planting guidelines are listed below;

Green Beans: plant every 10 days
Beets: plant every 14 days
Cucumbers: plant every 3 weeks
Collards: plant every 3 weeks
Lettuce: plant every 10-14 days
Melons: plant every 3 weeks
Radish: plant every 7 days
Spinach: plant every 7 days
Squash: plant every 6 weeks
Sweet Corn: plant every 14 days
Carrots: plant in spring & fall
Cabbage: transplant in spring & fall
Cauliflower: transplant in spring & fall
Broccoli: transplant in spring & fall
Tomatoes: transplant in spring & fall
Peppers: transplant in spring & fall
Peas: plant in spring & fall

As you can see, a productive season long garden is very possible, with you as
the benefactor and harvestor of the bounty.

Happy gardening, Terry

Some Like it Hot!!!!

How hot are those peppers?

The Scoville scale is a measurement of the spicy heat of a chili pepper.

The number of Scoville heat units indicates the amount of capsaicin present. Capsaicin is a chemical compound that stimulates chemoreceptor nerve endings in the skin, especially the mucous membranes.

The scale is named after its creator, American pharmacist Wilbur Scoville. His method, devised in 1912, is known as the Scoville Organoleptic Test. The modern commonplace method for quantitative analysis uses high-performanceliquidchromatography, making it possible to directly measure capsaicinoid content.

How is the heat scale generally broken down?

Mild----------0-5000

Medium------5000-20,000

Hot----------20,000-70,000

Extreme-----70,000-300,000+

So how hot are the peppers you are eating?

Sweet Bell, Sweet Banana, Pimento ---------------------------------- 0

Cherry---------------------------------------------------------------0-500

Tam Jalapeno,Poblano, Ancho,Anaheim------------------------------1000-2000

Jalapeno, Mucho Nacho----------------------------------------------2500-8000

Cayenne-------------------------------------------------------------6000-8500

Hot Hungarian Wax--------------------------------------------------5000-9000

Serrano--------------------------------------------------------------8000-22000

Tabasco-------------------------------------------------------------30000-50000

Habanero-----------------------------------------------------------150000-325000

How do you stop the burning after eating jalapeno peppers?

Because of the innate hotness of all chile peppers, they can burn not only the inside of your mouth, but your skin as well. If you find that you simply can't bear the heat after eating a chile pepper, try to consume a dairy product, like milk, yogurt, or ice cream. Dairy products contain a chemical called caisen that combats the effects of chile peppers' capsicum by stripping it from its receptor site on the skin. I've also tried sugar and that seems to work in a pinch.

Jalapeno Skin Burn

Try rubbing alcohol first to remove the burning oil. Then, soak the skin in milk or another dairy product. Only use water or saline for your eyes, however, and please remember that the best way to combat the chile pepper heat is to use rubber gloves when handling peppers.

Also, this was suggested by a poison control center for those times you do not have a dairy product on hand: Wash the skin with warm, soapy water. Rub the skin with vegetable or olive oil and let set a minute. Rinse.

After all that information about how hot peppers are to the taste. Here is a

recipe for fresh salsa.

Fresh Salsa

1 to 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1/3 large onion, finely chopped

½ large green bell pepper, finely chopped

½ to 1 whole jalapeno pepper, finely chopped

4 large Roma (paste) tomatoes, chopped

1 small bunch of cilantro leaves, finely chopped

Juice from ¼ lemon

Mix ingredients together and serve, altering the recipe to suit your own taste preferences. Store covered in the refrigerator. To keep calorie and fat content low, serve with baked tortilla chips.

Makes four servings.

Best of all, the ingredients can all be grown in your home garden! The lemon

juice might be a problem to grow in some northern states.

Gardening is always about digging in the dirt, it is also about enjoying the produce you grow.

Happy Gardening, Terry

Growing Pepper plants

As peppers are of tropical origin, plants thrive best when temperatures are warm. Being sensitive to the cold, planting should be delayed until the danger of frost is past in the spring. Ideal temperatures are 70 to 80 degrees F during the day, and 60 to 70 degrees F at night.

Extremely high temperatures (90 degrees F or above) during flowering often results in blossom drop. Fruit that set when temperatures average above 80 degrees F may be small and poorly shaped due to heat injury to the blossoms. Temperatures below 60 degrees F at night will also result in blossom drop.

A shortage of water at bloom time can also result in blossom drop or failure to set fruit. Usually, the plants set satisfactory crops when temperatures are between 65 and 80 degrees F and the soil is well-supplied with moisture. Avoid a soggy, water-logged soil condition when growing peppers.

Pepper plants grow best in warm, well-drained soils of moderate fertility and good tilth. The plants are not particularly sensitive to soil acidity, but best results are obtained in the 6.0 to 6.8 pH range. Adjust soil fertility as indicated by soil test results. Arrangements for soil testing can be made through your local Cooperative Extension office. Fertilizers of a 1-2-2 ratio, such as 5-10-10 or 8-16-16 are often used for growing peppers

Peppers are usually grown in home gardens by using transplants rather than by direct seeding. If you are buying transplants at a local garden center, select stocky, sturdy plants that have 3-5 sets of true leaves. Avoid plants that already have flowers and fruit.

Space plants 18 inches apart in rows 24 inches apart or more, depending on the type of cultivation used. Water plants thoroughly after transplanting. Avoid planting under conditions that will stunt the plants and lead to poor production, such as cold weather, lack of sufficient soil moisture, or lack of sufficient fertilizer.

After the plants are well established, apply a mulch to conserve soil moisture, prevent soil compaction and help suppress weed growth.

Once fruits have begun to set, an additional sidedressing of fertilizer will help promote greater plant productivity. Use a 12-12-12 analysis fertilizer or other high nitrogen fertilizer at the rate recommended on the package.

Control weeds by hand-pulling or shallow cultivation to avoid injury to the plant roots. The incidence of disease can be reduced by proper spacing and by watering early in the day so leaves dry quickly or by using soaker hoses.

Aphids should be controlled as they may carry viral diseases that can affect peppers. European Corn Borers may make small holes near the stem of the pepper and cause internal rot of the fruit. Contact your Cooperative Extension office for the latest control recommendations.

Bell peppers are usually picked green and immature but when they are full-sized and firm. However, if they are allowed to ripen on the plant they will be sweeter and higher in vitamin content. Other peppers are usually harvested at full maturity.

Care should be taken when breaking the peppers from the plants, as the branches are often brittle. Hand clippers or pruners can be used to cut peppers from the plant to avoid excessive stem breakage. The number of peppers per plant varies with the variety. Bell pepper plants may produce 6 to 8 or more fruit per plant.

In general, peppers have short storage life of only one to two weeks. Cool, moist conditions (45 to 50 degrees F) and 85 to 90 percent relative humidity are the ideal storage conditions for peppers.

Did you know?: A sweet green pepper is a pepper that is not yet ripe. Let it grow, and it will turn red. The texture will change markedly, and the flavor will change as well.

Happy Gardening, Terry

Fertilizing Tomatoes

Tomatoes have specific nutritional needs such as nitrogen, phosphate, potash,
calcium, magnesium, potassium and other micro-nutrients to build cell wall
structure and increase plant vigor.

Tomatoes are vigorous, fast growing, and heavy feeding plants which require
fertilization a few times during the season.

Too much nitrogen will create tall, very green, leafy tomato plants with little or
no tomatoes during the season.

Add a complete garden fertilizer at the time the soil is prepared. For tomatoes,
use a fertilizer low in nitrogen (N), high in phosphorous (P) and medium to
high in potassium (K). Among the best analyses for tomatoes are 8-32-16 and
6-24-24. Avoid using ammonia fertilizers such as urea or ammonium nitrate
for tomato fertilization

All fertilizer should be worked well into the top 6 inches of soil.

Proper spacing and staking are essential for healthy plants and good fruit
production. Planting distance depends on the type of tomato grown. Ideal
spacing for home garden tomatoes is generally 24 to 36 inches between plants. Planting closer than 24 inches reduces air circulation around the plants and can trigger disease outbreaks. Large-vine tomatoes should be spaced 36 inches apart. Rows should be 4 to 5 feet apart

Tomatoes grow best when they receive full sunshine. Plant them away from trees and buildings to get highest yield. A tomato plant needs a lot of water, so arrange for easy watering. Select a well-drained area because poor soil aeration leads to root loss and physiological problems such as blossom end rot

A tomato fruit is 95 percent water, so tomatoes need lots of water to grow and develop fruit. They should receive 1 to 2 inches of water a week. If this amount is not received as rainfall, then supplemental irrigation is necessary.
Soak the soil thoroughly when watering. Frequent light waterings will encourage a weak root system. Mulching with straw, clean hay, compost, paper or plastic will reduce soil water evaporation. Plants growing in small containers may need daily waterings

Fertilizer applied at the time of planting will not supply enough nutrients for the entire season. Too much nitrogen in the beginning results in lush vegetative growth and poor fruit set.

Apply the first side-dressing when the first fruits are about one-third grown. Apply 0.5 pound of actual nitrogen per 100 feet of row. This is equivalent to 5 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer. Calcium nitrate is an excellent fertilizer to apply as a side-dress. About 3.5 pounds of calcium nitrate can be side-dressed per 100 feet of row. Mix the fertilizer carefully into the top inch of soil. Don’t get fertilizer on the foliage

Blossom end rot
Very common problem on homegrown tomatoes. It appears as a depressed brownish, rather dry rot the size of a dime to a half dollar on the blossom end of the fruit. It is caused by a calcium deficiency coupled with wide fluctuations in available moisture. Training and pruning may increase blossom end rot. Remove the affected fruit so other fruits on the plant will develop normally, and keep the plants well watered. Provide adequate amounts of water along with good soil drainage. Mulch to maintain a more uniform moisture supply. Avoid cultivating, or hoeing, near the roots of tomato plants. Do not use ammonia fertilizers

Cracking
Fruit cracking varies by the variety. Cracking is usually a problem when soil moisture fluctuates. Tomatoes exposed directly to sunlight are highly susceptible to cracking. Select varieties that are crack-resistant, and keep them adequately watered at all times. Soil drying followed by watering encourages cracking

Flower drop
Especially noticeable on early flowers when the grower is anxious for fruit to set for an early harvest. The problem occurs when night temperatures are lower than 55 degrees F, when day temperatures are higher than 95 degrees F, or when night temperatures remain above 75 degrees F. Hot drying winds may intensify the problem.

Varieties also will differ in their temperature response. Fruit-setting hormones may be used to help set fruit early in the season when the weather is cool. The problem usually disappears and fruits set normally after the weather improves.

Happy Gardening, Terry

Growing Tomatoes

Not all tomatoes are the same

First, determine what kind of space you want to put your tomatoes in.

Tomatoes come in two different types; determinate and indeterminate.

As the name suggests, determinates have vines that grow to a determined

point and stop, making them more compact and bushy (They are

sometimes listed as bush tomatoes).

Indeterminates are more viney than determinates; their vines continue to grow

and need support. Determinates tend to be early; indeterminates are a good bet

for later fruit. Obviously the determinates are better suited for small gardens;

they are also a better bet for containers (although you could always provide a

cage or trellis for indeterminates in containers).

Tomatoes are easy to grow from seed (65° F or 18° C to germinate). Unless you

wish to grow heirloom tomatoes, you may wish to simply purchase your tomato

plants if you want to spare yourself the time and trouble.

Tomatoes require plenty of sun. As for soil, they will grow in just about

anything you throw at them.

They do very well when planted in containers, as soil can easily be changed or

improved from year to year (raised beds are good for much the same reason).

Uniform watering is the key to nice fruit. Even watering can prevent leaf-end

roll, blossom end-rot and "cat-facing", those misshapen crags and cracks on

the stem end of the fruit. Can't say this enough; tomatoes are about the

watering! Skimp on amendments, fertilizers and the rest, but if you want

good tomatoes it's all about the water.

It is OK to plant tomatoes in the garden when the temperature is a consistent

50° F, but plants won't begin to set fruit until the overnight low is regularly

above 55°. Plant tomatoes approximately 2 to 3 feet apart from each other or in

rows three feet apart with the plants spaced at a foot. This is a good method for

indeterminate types in smaller gardens; you must simply keep the plant to a

single main stalk.

Next week, I give you some information on fertilizers, and tips onhow to cure

blossom end rot.

Happy Gardening, Terry

Is It Organic Or Is It Natural ?

Are natural and organic foods the same?

No. The term “natural” is not regulated except for meat and poultry. It applies broadly to

foods that are minimally processed and free of synthetic preservatives; artificial

sweeteners, colors, flavors and other artificial additives; hydrogenated oils; stabilizers;

and emulsifiers. Most foods labeled natural are not subject to government controls

beyond the regulations and heath codes that apply to all foods. The USDA Food

Safety and Inspection Service (FSIS) requires natural meat and poultry to be free

of artificial colors, flavors, sweeteners, preservatives and ingredients. These products

must be minimally processed in a method that does not fundamentally change them.

The label must also explain the use of the term natural such as no artificial ingredients.

Labeling meat and poultry products natural does not refer to how the sources of those

foods were raised. “Organic” refers not only to the food itself, but also to how it was

produced. Foods labeled organic must meet or exceed the regulations of the National

Organic Program (NOP), which took effect October 21, 2002. They must be grown

and processed using organic farming methods that recycle resources and promote

biodiversity. Crops must be grown without using synthetic pesticides, bioengineered

genes, petroleum-based fertilizers and sewage sludge-based fertilizers. Organic

livestock must have access to the outdoors and be given no antibiotics or growth

hormones.

Organic foods may not be irradiated.

Farmers are devoting more acreage to organic products. Organic

cropland and pasture increased from 2.35 million in 2001 to 2.80 million

in 2003, according to the most current data from the USDA's Economic Research

Service (ERS) and Nutrition Business Journal

.

Studies show that organic farming systems can be more profitable than chemical-

intensive ones. The reasons include increased yields in drier areas or times, lower

production costs and higher prices. About 0.5 percent of U.S. crop and pasture land is

used to grow organic foods, according to the ERS. The countries with the highest

percentage: Switzerland (9.0 percent), Austria (8.6 percent), Italy (6.8 percent),

Sweden (5.2 percent), Czech Republic (3.9 percent) and UK (3.3 percent)

Are natural and organic foods healthier or safer than conventional

foods?

Overall, organic food is neither safer nor more nutritious than conventionally

produced food. Many basic organic foods such as milk, butter, ice cream and

meat contain as much fat and calories as their conventional counterparts.

Certain health benefits motivate shoppers to buy natural or organic foods. For instance,

people allergic to foods, chemicals or preservatives can gain relief by switching to

organic foods, personal care products and clothing. To reduce fat and cholesterol in

their diets, consumers can replace meat with products made from organic soy, wheat or

vegetables. Buyers of organic baby foods can avoid the pesticide residues in

conventional baby foods. Some organic foods also have significantly higher levels of

cancerfighting antioxidants, according to a study of corn, strawberries and

marionberries.

The Organic Center found that antioxidant levels averaged about 30 percent higher in

organic food compared with conventional products grown under the same conditions.

Some officials say, however, organic foods can at times be less safe than conventional

foods. In October 2002, USDA’s undersecretary for food safety warned that organic

foods’ lack of preservatives makes them vulnerable to bacteria and parasites.

Proponents of organic foods disagree, stating: Organic farming systems provide

a buffering capacity for the soil and plant surfaces, and therefore may lower the

likelihood of establishment of foodborne pathogens.There is evidence that organically

grown plants have stronger natural protection against plant pathogens than conventional

ones, but needs to be verified.

Certified organic growers follow strict guidelines for safe and hygienic food

production. And they are inspected by independent particles to qualify for certification.

As with all food producers, they must comply with local, state and federal health

standards. Pasteurization, selected use of chlorine and other food safety practices

are allowed and followed in organic production

How does the certification process work?

All organic production and handling operations must be certified by third parties

accredited by the USDA. Producers that sell less than $5,000 worth of organic

products a year do not have to be certified, although they must follow NOP

requirements and document that they do so. The regulations require that products

labeled:

􀂃

“100 percent organic” contain only organic ingredients.

􀂃

“Organic” contain at least 95 percent organic materials. Products in

this or the first category can (but are not required to) display the

USDA Organic seal shown on page 2.

􀂃

“Made with organic ingredients” contain 70-95 percent organic ingredients

and may list up to three of them.

Products with less than 70 percent organic ingredients may not use the

term organic other than to list specific organic ingredients.

Complete information about the NOP, including the regulations and

penalties, is available at http://www.ams.usda.gov/nop/.

Remember to plant it, grow it and enjoy it!

Happy gardening, Terry

Do you know your soil?

Soil testing reveals the composition of soil as well as the nutrients it contains.

If soil is lacking in nutrients or is too acidic or alkaline, it can affect the soil

fertility. Soil testing offers insight to help amend soil PH levels. These

amendments will help grow more crops and healthier plants. Testing the

soil is also critical in preventing over-fertilization, which causes weak growth

of crops. With proper fertilization, you can ensure a stable growth of plants

and also prevent contamination of your groundwater.

Happy Gardening! Terry

Soil must contain three essential nutrients in order for plants to thrive--

nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. These three nutrients are represented

by the three numbers on the front of every fertilizer bag. Purchasing the

proper fertilizer allows you to add only the nutrients your soil needs. Soil

test kits are available at any greenhouse/garden center store to test the nutrient

levels in your soil so that you can formulate the proper fertilization plan

The soil test results will tell you

• soil pH;
• levels of potassium (K), phosphorus (P), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg),
• and sulfur (S);
• organic matter level;
• whether there is lead contamination (for health reasons, all soil samples
• from home gardens and lawns are measured for lead content);
• how much lime and fertilizer (organic or chemical) to add; and
• other management tips for growing your crop.

Test your soil at least once every three years. Keep the test results handy so

that you can monitor any changes in soil fertility.

You may want to test more often if you have a problem area or if you’ve

applied lots of nutrients. Some people test their soil every year to save

money on fertilizer, lime, and other soil amendments. How often you test

depends on the value of your crop and how closely you manage it.

The results of your soil test give recommendations for the next growing

season, so you should test soil well before the growing season, such as in

early spring after the frost is out of the soil, or in the fall before the ground

freezes. A soil test usually takes two to three weeks (from shipping to the

lab to return of results). The results will be the same whether you test in

spring or in fall, but with fall sampling, you will get results back in plenty

of time for planting.

Strawberries Galore!

Choosing Strawberry Plants

There are basically 3 types of strawberry plants to choose from: June bearing,
Everbearing and Day Neutral.

June Bearing strawberries produce a single, large crop per year during a

2 - 3 week period in the spring. June bearers are the traditionally grown plants,

producing a single flush of flowers and many runners. They are classified into

early, mid-season and late varieties. The largest fruits are generally from June

bearing varieties.

Everbearing strawberries produce two to three harvests of fruit intermittently

during the spring, summer and fall. Everbearing plants do not send out many

runners.

Day Neutral strawberries will produce fruit throughout the growing season.

These strawberries also produce few runners. Everbearing and day neutral

strawberries are great when space is limited, but the fruits are usually somewhat

smaller than June bearers

Land Preparation

Strawberries grow best on soils having high organic matter

content and high fertility levels. In raised bed situations, extra

organic matter such as compost, peat,or well-rotted straw and

manure can be incorporated. In the early spring before planting,

the strawberry bed should be fertilized by working in two pounds

of 6-24-24 or an equivalent analysis fertilizer per 100 square

feet. Work this into the top 6 inches of soil. High levels of

phosphates and potash are desirable for best fruit production.

The ground should be worked as soon as possible in the spring,

and the plants should be set early in order to obtain the best

growth and plant production in in the first year.

Planting

Rows should be spaced 36 to 48 inches apart depending upon

the space available in the garden and the intensity of culture

that is practiced. Plants should be set 15 to 24 inches apart

in-row. Wider spacings should be used for earlier plantings

and the narrower space for later plantings. Plants should be

set with the crown (the fleshy part from which the leaves

develop) at the soil surface. If the plants are set too shallow,

roots tend to dry out before they take hold, and the plant may

die. If planted too deep, the plants may also fail to grow.

Firm the soil around the roots, and then water thoroughly.

First Season's Care

Maintain the planting weed-free

throughout the season by cultivating,

hoeing, and hand removal of weeds.

If the garden is large enough, suitable

herbicides may be used. As soon as

flowers appear, they should be pinched

off to promote early, vigorous plant

growth and early formation of runner

plants. The first crop will be harvested

a year from planting and a major

portion of the crop will come from the

mother plants plus the runner plants

which are formed and well-rooted

before August. Runner plants should

be positioned as they develop so that

a density of about 5 plants per square

foot is achieved. The rows should be

maintained no wider than 12 to 18

inches, and when the desired plant

density is reached, all additional

runners should be removed through

cultivation and cutting of runners by

hand within the row.

Harvesting

Berries should be harvested as often

as every other day to maintain top

quality. Pick the berries with the caps

on and with 1/2 inch of stem attached.

Pinch the stem between the thumb

and middle fingernails, while cradling

the berry in the palm of the hand.

Strawberries do not ripen after

harvest, so they should be allowed

to fully ripen before picking. Remove

overripe and rotted berries so that

insect and disease problems can

be minimized. If berries are to be

stored for overnight or longer in

the refrigerator, do not wash them.

Place them in a covered shallow

pan and place in the refrigerator as

soon as possible to cool quickly.

Wash just prior to consumption.

Growing Cool Season Crops

The leafy, cool-season vegetables include broccoli, collards, cauliflower,

kohlrabi, cabbage, spinach, mustard greens, Swiss chard, lettuce, and

Brussels sprouts, which belongs to the Cole crop or cabbage family.

Plant all of these early in the spring as soon as the ground can be worked or in

August for a fall garden. You can plant by direct seeding or by using

transplants. Transplants are preferred with many leafy vegetables as they

establish faster and mature early. Harvest these crops at the right time based

on the edible part of the plant.

The root crops include radishes, beets, carrots, turnips, rutabagas, and

parsnips. These require well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter.

Radishes are the root crop that matures early. Parsnip matures just before

the ground freezes. Prepare a fine seedbed and plant seeds of the root crops

as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. They should be thinned

to the right spacing when plants are two to three inches tall.

Cool-season vegetables thrive when daytime temperatures average between

65°- 80° F, with nighttime temperatures staying above 40° F. Spring and fall

(and winter in some areas) provide perfect conditions for these crops.

Most cool-season vegetables can tolerate a light frost and are generally planted

2-4 weeks before your last frost date in the spring

Harvest by pulling the plants from the ground and trimming off the tops when

necessary. Cool-season veggies grow best at temperatures averaging 15° cooler

than those needed by warm season types.

Since hot temperatures make these vegetables bitter, or cause them to go

to seed, plan your growing seasons to avoid harvesting when the temperatures

climb above 80° F.

Except in coldest climates, plant them in very early spring so the crop will

mature before summer heat settles in, or in late summer for a crop in fall in winter.

In warm regions, plant cool season crops from late summer to early fall for

harvest in late fall, winter, or early spring.

Comments, remarks and followers are always welcome,

Happy Gardening, Terry

Growing Asparagus

An asparagus patch is typically started with one-year-old crowns purchased
from a garden center or seed catalog.

A crown is the root system of a year-old asparagus plant grown from seed.
There is conflicting information on how asparagus crowns should be planted.
Traditionally it was recommended to dig an 8-inch deep trench for the crowns,
then carefully spread out the roots within the trench, refilling it a bit at a time
as the plants grow. However, recent comparison studies have shown that it
isn't necessary to gradually fill the trench or spread out the roots. Additionally,
the deeper asparagus crowns are planted, the more the yield will be reduced.

To plant your asparagus crowns in the spring, start by digging a trench that is
5-6 inches deep. For every 50 feet of row, add a pound of 0-46-0 triple
superphosphate fertilizer or two pounds of 0-20-0 superphosphate fertilizer
to the trench. Next, toss the crowns into the trench, right on top of the
fertilizer. The plants will grow well whether or not the roots are spread out.
Place the crowns 18 inches apart, with five feet between rows. This will
provide good air circulation for the plants and help prevent fungal diseases.
Finally, backfill the trench to the original soil level, being careful to not
compact the soil over the crowns.

If you have poorly draining or clay soil, it would be better to plant your
asparagus in a raised bed. The asparagus spears cannot be harvested the
same year the crowns were planted. The plants need this time to build their
energy so they can produce well. The following year you may harvest a
small crop over a three-week period, and over a 4-6 week period the year
after that. It is the third year after planting when you can continue to harvest
for the full 6-8 week season. Stop harvesting when new spears become less
than a half inch in diameter.

Once harvesting is done, allow the plants to grow and keep their fern-like
foliage through fall and winter. The foliage will catch snow that will provide
moisture and insulation for the roots. Cut or mow the foliage in early spring
before new growth begins to emerge.

Happy Gardening, Terry

Pruning Trees and Shrubs

Well spring is just around the corner and it is a good time to prune your trees
and shrubs.


Pruning is healthy and functional for almost any tree or shrub and when done
properly will add to the beauty of the plant.


The objective of pruning is to remove or reduce parts of the plant that are not
required or are of no use to the plant. Pruning effectively will redirect the
future growth of the plant towards the develment of flowers, fruits, and limbs.

By removing undesirable parts of the plant while improving the health, beauty
and production of the plant.


Caution, however a plant pruned improperly can become ugly and possibly die.


Now before you get out your tools and start clipping in your plants. Develop a
plan, decide on a shape, or contemplate the ultimate goal of your pruning.


Do very little pruning on ornamental trees or shrubs. Prune wood that is dead,
diseased or injured and branches that cross (rub) or grow back into the center
of the tree or are out of place. Be sure to keep the natural shape of the tree intact.


Fruit trees are normally trained and pruned to increase their productivity and
keep their size under control. It is best to prune them on an annual basis,
starting the first year they are planted. Too many people wait until the tree
is five or ten years old before they consider pruning. Begin training a fruit tree
the first year it is planted.

Don’t let firsttime pruning intimidate you. Decide for yourself how you want
the tree to look in five, 10 or even 20 years, then start to shape it as you prune.

The main objective of pruning fruit trees is to keep the tree open, allowing light
to penetrate into the center of the tree.

New fruit trees normally need four to six branches to form the lower
scaffolding. In orchards, many trees are trained with a central leader, or main
trunk, with many scaffolding layers. For backyard orchardists with only a few
trees it’s best to prune fruit trees as an open vase. An open vase tree has only
one scaffolding layer and the center of the tree remains open.

To create this shape keep five or so branches that are kept should be three to
five feet off the ground, and spaced evenly around the tree. This is the
framework for the open vase. As these branches grow they become the major
wood which produces the fruit. Picture the tree as a giant solar collector, and
space the branches around the tree to optimize the amount of sun it can collect.

Apple, pear and cherry trees naturally try to grow a central leader, or a main
trunk system. Removing the leader to create an open vase makes the tree take
on an unnatural shape. The branches may each try to become the main trunk
and grow upright. Discourage this by training branches to grow in a horizontal
direction by either tying them down with string, placing weights out on the
ends of the branches or placing a spacer in the fork to force a wider angle.

I hope this helps you with your pruning this spring. If you still have questions
write,email or call me.

Happy gardening, Terry

How much light does a plant really need?

Whenever a new plant is acquired for the garden, gardeners need to keep a few
things in mind. To ensure a long, happy life for the plant, it must be hardy to
your garden's climate and it needs to receive the proper amount of sunlight.

Determining whether or not a particular plant will survive the winter cold and
summer heat is usually quite simple. The growing zone for plants is typically
listed on the plant tag if the plant has been purchased from a nursery, and
growing zone maps can be found in nearly every seed catalog or online.

But sometimes the light requirements listed on plant tags can be awfully
confusing. What is the difference between "light shade" and "filtered shade"?
And what exactly is "full sun"?

If a plant requires full sun, this means it should be planted in a spot where it
will receive no less than six hours of unshaded sunlight each day. Most
vegetable plants and many flowering plants require full sun.

Plants that require full shade should be planted where they will receive no
direct sunlight. Locate plants with full shade requirements on the north side
of your house or beneath a shade tree. Hostas, ferns and many woodland
wildflowers require full shade or filtered shade.

Filtered shade is often found beneath trees that have more open canopies.
The area is mostly shaded, but some dappled sunlight does reach the ground
beneath the trees. A plant that grows well in filtered shade will generally
perform just as well in part shade.

An area that receives four to five hours of shade daily is considered to be in
part shade. A partly shady area may receive direct sunlight in the early
morning or late afternoon, but is in full shade the remainder of the day.
A plant that typically requires full sun will survive in part shade but may
not bloom well.

If an area receives two to four hours of shade during the growing season,
this would be considered light shade. A plant that needs full sun will tolerate
light shade, especially if they are shaded during the hottest part of the day.
In particularly warm climates, full sun plants will appreciate receiving some
light shade to help them deal with the heat.

Growing Onions

The new year is upon us, and now is the time to start planning our garden.

Let's discuss planting onions. Onions are very popular vegatable in home gardens and are one of the first to plant in the spring.

Soil Preparation
Till your soil deep and if adding manure or composted organic matter then add a few weeks before sowing / planting out.

You can tread on the soil gently to firm it up a bit prior to sowing.

Sowing Onions can be planted from seed or from sets (small partly grown onion bulbs). Sets are more expensive but they tend to be more reliable in their results and also require less work - no thinning and reduced onion fly risk.

If sowing from seed then sow in drills (small rows) about 1/4" deep with about 1 inch between seeds. If sowing in rows then space the rows about 1 foot apart.

The soil should be moist before sowing so check the soil the day before sowing and water if the soil is dry.

If planting onion sets then they can be planted as early as Mid to Late February (earlier if your climate is suitable). Again space rows about 1 foot apart. Sow sets around 4" apart as they shouldn't require any thinning. Dig a small hole for each set and place the set in neck upwards. When covered back up with soil the tip of the neck should just show through the soil surface.

Soil type

Onions will grow in almost any soil from sandy loams to heavy clay. The soil should be firm. If your soil is heavy then you can introduce some organic compost or manure into the soil to help its moisture retaining properties.

Onions prefer a slightly acidic soil - PH 5.5-6.5 is a good PH for growing onions.

Tending

Frequently weed between the onions by shallow hoeing, onions do not trap much incoming light due to their sparse leaf forms so weeds can take full advantage of the available light.

If your crop has been sown from seed then you will need to thin the onions when they reach about 2" in height. Thin them so that they are spaced about 4" apart.

Harvesting

Onions are ready to harvest a week after their tops have started to fall over and are yellowed.

Use a spading fork to lift the onions out of the ground. Take care not to damage the skins as this invites decay organisms in to attack the onion flesh.

Onions should be harvested on a sunny day, cleaned of any soil still attached to them and then placed on top of the soil where they will dry out with the help of the sun and wind.. Leave the onions out for a few days (until the tops dry out).

Remove the tops with a sharp knife about 1/4" above the onion top so that decay organisms do not have direct access to the onion bulb.

Discard any onions that show signs of decay or damage as these can affect healthy onions if they are stored .

If you want to store the onions over winter then you can cure them by hanging them in a well aired place (such as from the roof of a summer house veranda). Mesh bags or strings can be used to group and hang the onions and they should hang for about 3-4 weeks.

Spring onions can be harvested when they are about 1- 1 1/2 ft in height and will store for up to a week in the fridge. To prepare spring onions simply remove the outer set of leaves and wash.

Happy gardening and have bountiful harvest.