Thursday, January 20, 2011

Pruning Trees and Shrubs

Well spring is just around the corner and it is a good time to prune your trees
and shrubs.


Pruning is healthy and functional for almost any tree or shrub and when done
properly will add to the beauty of the plant.


The objective of pruning is to remove or reduce parts of the plant that are not
required or are of no use to the plant. Pruning effectively will redirect the
future growth of the plant towards the develment of flowers, fruits, and limbs.

By removing undesirable parts of the plant while improving the health, beauty
and production of the plant.


Caution, however a plant pruned improperly can become ugly and possibly die.


Now before you get out your tools and start clipping in your plants. Develop a
plan, decide on a shape, or contemplate the ultimate goal of your pruning.


Do very little pruning on ornamental trees or shrubs. Prune wood that is dead,
diseased or injured and branches that cross (rub) or grow back into the center
of the tree or are out of place. Be sure to keep the natural shape of the tree intact.


Fruit trees are normally trained and pruned to increase their productivity and
keep their size under control. It is best to prune them on an annual basis,
starting the first year they are planted. Too many people wait until the tree
is five or ten years old before they consider pruning. Begin training a fruit tree
the first year it is planted.

Don’t let firsttime pruning intimidate you. Decide for yourself how you want
the tree to look in five, 10 or even 20 years, then start to shape it as you prune.

The main objective of pruning fruit trees is to keep the tree open, allowing light
to penetrate into the center of the tree.

New fruit trees normally need four to six branches to form the lower
scaffolding. In orchards, many trees are trained with a central leader, or main
trunk, with many scaffolding layers. For backyard orchardists with only a few
trees it’s best to prune fruit trees as an open vase. An open vase tree has only
one scaffolding layer and the center of the tree remains open.

To create this shape keep five or so branches that are kept should be three to
five feet off the ground, and spaced evenly around the tree. This is the
framework for the open vase. As these branches grow they become the major
wood which produces the fruit. Picture the tree as a giant solar collector, and
space the branches around the tree to optimize the amount of sun it can collect.

Apple, pear and cherry trees naturally try to grow a central leader, or a main
trunk system. Removing the leader to create an open vase makes the tree take
on an unnatural shape. The branches may each try to become the main trunk
and grow upright. Discourage this by training branches to grow in a horizontal
direction by either tying them down with string, placing weights out on the
ends of the branches or placing a spacer in the fork to force a wider angle.

I hope this helps you with your pruning this spring. If you still have questions
write,email or call me.

Happy gardening, Terry

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