Christmas - Reason for the season

Christmas is a wonderful time of the year. A time to enjoy family and friends.

Christmas is a time of giving. Yes, in the past we have all been pressured into
giving of gifts of a commercial nature. Some of these commercial gifts have
cost a considerable amount of money. Yet in these troubled times the most
valuable gifts we can give, are our time, talents, friendship and love. All
else will be broken, worn out, tossed out, and/or forgotten.

As we continue through this season, scatter a little compassion, sow seeds
of kindness and let's see what grows. And harvest a bounty of happiness.

When the car ahead, cuts you off, instead of some hasty freeway sign
language, just say "Merry Christmas". And surely your day will be better
for doing so. When the lines are long, let someone move ahead of you to
ease their burden. Open a door for someone, greet a stranger with a smile,
cheer up an overworked cashier, wave to a neighbor, just a few small acts
of kindness that can change a hostile world. The greatest gift may be a smile
to someone that thinks they have no reason to smile or be happy. Take time
to cheer up the sad and make them feel glad.

These small acts have huge rewards, maybe not to you, but some lucky
person will be the recipient. If you pay it forward and do a good deed first,
you can smile as you lift the spirits of an unsuspecting soul.

Christ, is the reason for this season, all his kindness and sacrifice he paid
forward. I paraphase his teaching of "If you do it unto the least of these,
ye have done it unto me". Therefore no act of kindness will go unrewarded.

Have a safe and wonderful holiday, and help change the world, one act at a time.


"Merry Christmas!" from this 'greenhouse' to your house
From: Lil' Red Greenhouse

Vertical or alternative gardening

Having only a small amount of growing space doesn't have to mean you can't
grow much. Now is the time to think outside the box. With a little creativity,
you can grow a lot more by gardening vertically or alternatively.

With just a little adaptation, many flowers and vegetable plants can be
grown vertically. Vining plants are especially suited to vertical gardening
and they will readily climb a trellis or fence.

Cages, poles, arbors, fences and even walls can be used to grow plants
vertically. Hanging baskets are another form of vertical gardening, with the
plants growing downward rather than upward. If you want to grow cherry
tomatoes this summer but don't have room for a garden, you might try
growing them in hanging baskets on your patio or balcony.

Tomato plants will be easier to care for if they are trellised or grown in cages.
The fruit will stay clean if the plants aren't left to sprawl on the ground,
and the improved air circulation will help deter fungal diseases. Fragile
pepper plants also benefit from growing in cages that will protect their
fragile stems from breaking under a heavy load of peppers.

Cucumber plants grown in a cage or on a trellis will produce nice, straight
fruit. I grew some in 5 gallon buckets, I cut holes in the side about 2/3 to
the top for the plants. I then suspended the buckets and had nice straight
cucumbers. Squash and melons can also be trained to grow on a fence or
trellis, although you may have to create slings to support the heavier fruit
as it matures. Mini pumpkins and gourds would be very attractive growing
on a fence, but you might want to keep your larger pumpkins on the ground.
Their heavy weight could pull down a fence or trellis.

Teepees for pole beans, vining peas or morning glory can be made by lashing
the tops together on three or more long bamboo poles. Pole beans will also
happily climb up corn stalks or tall sunflowers, or up strings secured to a low
roof or second floor balcony.

Keep in mind using alternative materials. Such as tires, railroad ties, cinder
blocks stacked to make a pyramid. Consider using a large plastic barrel for a
herb or strawberry garden, by cutting holes in the side for the plants to grow
out.

When you plant vertically, keep in mind that the vertical planting will also
cast a shadow. Give careful thought to what will grow on the shady side of
the vertical planting. This would be a good spot for growing cool-season
plants that would benefit from a little shade, such as lettuce, beets, broccolli.
You can also use your plants to shade the side of your house in the summer.

A vertical garden can be used to block an unattractive view, and a vertical
garden can also be more accessible to gardeners with disabilities.

Happy Gardening!!!!

Got Gnats!!!

How to Deal With Fungus Gnats


Fungus gnats are those tiny hopping and flying insects that you see when
you water your houseplants and greenhouse plants. They are 1/32 to 1/50
inches with gray or black bodies and clear wings. Plants grown under cover
are most susceptible. The larvae feed on dead roots and leaves, but
sometimes feed on tender new roots.

The adults live about a week, but during that time they lay hundreds of
eggs in the soil of your potted plants. They particularly like damp soil
that is rich in organic matter. The eggs hatch in 4-6 days and for about
two weeks the larvae feed on plant roots and root hairs in the soil. This can
weaken the plants, causing leaves to suddenly wilt or turn yellow. Plants
may drop their leaves in severe infestations.

If you see fungus gnats flying around your plants, you can be sure there
are also larvae feeding on the roots. To monitor the fungus gnat population,
use yellow sticky traps placed horizontally near the plants. Yellow stickyt
traps are available at many garden centers. You can also place inch-long
pieces of raw potato on the soil surface. If fungus gnat larvae are in the
soil, they will migrate to the potato within four hours to begin feeding.
The larvae are 1/4 inch white-bodied maggots with black heads under and
on the potato piece.

Once you know your plants have fungus gnats, the adults can be killed
with any insecticide spray labeled for gnats or flying insects. Treating
the larvae in the soil is another matter. A soil drench is most effective
in killing the larvae. There are organic products available specifically for
killing fungus gnat larvae, including a form of Bt (Bacillus Thuringiensis
Berliner var. israelensis). Gnatrol is the brand name of one form of Bt
for fungus gnats. There are also parasitic nematodes that attack fungus
gnat larvae, although this is more useful for large-scale plantings. Neem
oil is also effective against fungus gnats.

Happy Gardening!

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Christmas Trees - Live and Cut

Caring for Christmas trees is an annual question. And there are alot of ideas
of what to to make your tree last though the season.

If you have a fresh cut tree, you will want to keep it from losing all the
needles before Christmas day.

My suggestion is to cut off the bottom 2" of the tree when you get it home to
expose some new wood. Next get a 5 gallon bucket and place the tree in the
bucket with the bottom of the tree resting on the bottom of the bucket. It
may neccessary to trim some of the lower branches to do this. Then fill
the bucket with moist compost and pack it tightly, this will support your
tree for the season. The moist compost will keep the tree moist, very little
additional water should be required.

Live trees, you can leave them in their pot, container, or burlap ball. Water
them using ice cubes, to help reduce water run off. As soon as possible after
Christmas day, move your tree outdoors and plant it in your landscaping.
Depending on your soil and weather you may want to dig the hole for your
tree before the holidays, and save the soil for the planting day. Make sure
your live tree is free of pests and animals when you bring it into the house.
Otherwise you might have a very interesting story to tell about evicting the
critter from the house.

Happy Gardening and Merry Christmas !!!

Blueberry Plants

There are three basic types of cultivated blueberries, along with the native
lowbush blueberries. Maine is famous for their wild blueberries, and these
are the native lowbush berries. Cultivated blueberries are either highbush,
rabbiteye or southern highbush varieties, or a cross of any of these types.

Gardeners in northern climates should choose a highbush variety, or a
half-high hybrid that is crossed with the native lowbush plants. Rabbiteye
and southern highbush blueberries are more suited to the South.

For larger blueberry yields, two or more varieties should be planted.
It is not absolutely necessary to have more than one variety for pollination,
but if the plants are allowed to cross-pollinate, the berries will be larger
and the plants will produce a larger yield. Five plants will provide enough
blueberries for fresh eating, drying and preserving for a family of four.

Blueberry plants require full sun to produce a good crop. Blueberry bushes
need to grow in moist, acidic soil with a pH between 4.0 and 5.0. If the
pH is above 5.0, apply granular soil sulphur or aluminum sulfate to acidify it,
following the application rates on the package. If the soil pH is below 4.0
apply ground dolomitic limestone to sweeten it a bit.

The soil should be kept moist but not soggy. If the soil in your backyard
does not drain well, consider creating a raised bed for your blueberries.
When preparing the planting bed, mix a shovel full of well-rotted compost
or peat moss with the soil in each planting hole to increase the organic matter.

Plant blueberry bushes in the fall, or in the spring as soon as the soil can
be worked and after all danger of frost has past. The plants should be spaced
four to six feet apart.

The plants will begin to produce fruit in their third season, and the crop will
increase a bit each year until it reaches its full potential in the sixth season.
The plants generally require very little or no pruning for the first three years.

Raspberry Plants

Raspberry plants are easy enough to grow and care for, but you must understand
how the plant works in order to care for them properly.

Raspberries grow best in a well drained soil with a pH 6.0-6.5. Plant them in the fall or early spring, set them 2" deeper in the soil than they were previously growing. They ideally should be planted about 2' - 2 1/2' apart in rows 7' to 8' apart. Then cut them back to about 4"tall.

When first planted Raspberries will not produce any fruit the first year. They do not produce fruit on new growth, only two year old wood. But the raspberry canes only live two years. So each fall or late summer the spent canes that produced fruit should be removed.

The remaining canes should be topped at about 36", forcing the growth into lateral side branches which should be trained along support wires.

Some Raspberries are summer bearing and some are ever bearing, so make sure you know what yours are so you don't prune them to early and lose out on the that second flush of fruit. If you are not sure wait until fall to prune them. Ever bearing varieties can actually produce
fruit on new growth. This happens in late fall.

Everbearing raspberries are generally grown in hardiness zones 4-7. Summer bearing raspberries are grown in hardiness zones 4-8 depending on the variety.

When pruning it should be easy to distinguish the newest growth from the two
year old growth. Do not remove the new growth unless the plant is just too full.
All parts of the plant need good air circulation and sunlight. Keep that in mind
as you prune.

Not thinning raspberries is a huge mistake. Make sure you thin yours each fall for
good fruit production which should last for about 10 years.

Each spring apply a SMALL amount of 12-12-12 garden fertilizer spread over the root zone, about 1 pound per 10 feet of row.

Growing Potatoes

Potatoes, taters, spuds....by any name they are what they are,
potatoes are a staple in the diet of many people all around the
world and they're also incredibly easy to grow. But
before you run out to the garden with your shovel and hoe,
there are a few things to know about growing potatoes.

Potatoes should not be planted too early while the ground is
still cold. Potatoes do tolerate cool soil and a light frost,
but not much growth will take place until the soil warms up a bit.

Don't rush to your garden center looking for potato seedlings or packets
of potato seeds for sale. Interesting though, potatoes are grown
from seed potatoes. A seed potato is merely ordinary potato with
at least one "eye" or sprout. An amazing variety of seed potatoes
are available at garden centers and in seed catalogs.

Seed potatoes may be planted whole or cut into pieces with at
least one eye per piece. Seed potatoes with more eyes will
grow to produce a larger quantity of smaller potatoes while
seed potatoes with fewer eyes will produce fewer, but larger
potatoes.

If you choose to cut your seed potatoes into smaller pieces,
divide them the day before planting. This will allow the cut to
slightly heal which helps prevent soil-borne diseases from infecting
your crop. Always choose seed potatoes that are free from blemishes.

Plant your seed potatoes two to three inches deep in good, rich soil.
Rows of potatoes should be about three feet apart and the potatoes
within the row should be about a foot apart. Planting your potatoes
in a different area of your garden each year will also help prevent disease
and insect infestations from year to year.

Potato plants will begin to emerge one to three weeks after planting,
depending on the soil temperature. When the plants are about
a foot tall, use your hoe to mound six to eight inches of soil
against the potato plants. You can also use some straw or other mulch
to ensure the little potatoes will stay out of the sunlight that
causes them to be bitter and green.

Potato plants need to be uniformly watered during the growing season.
Fertilizer needs are very important. Spread 1 1/2 pound of 16-16-8 fertilizer
per 100 square feet of planting area or 1 cup per 10 feet of row and mix with
soil before planting. More fertilizer should be added when plants are 6" tall
and again at first blossoming. Use 1/2 cup ammonium sulfate (21-0-0-0 per
10 feet of row.

Once the plants have bloomed, you can begin to harvest little new
potatoes. After the foliage has begun to dry and die back, the
entire crop can be dug. Allow the potatoes to dry for a day or
two out of direct sunlight before storing them in a cool, dry and
dark place.

Potatoes are members of the Nightshade family, the plant has a bitter
poisonous sap in its stems and leaves. When the potato tuber is exposed
to the sun, it turns green and bitter. The chemical produced in this process
is poisonous if ingested in sufficient quantities. If the green layer is removed
when peeled, the potato is still edible.

Garden grown potatoes taste so much better than any can buy, because
you have an investment of work, care and attention in them.
Happy Gardening!!!!

Rotating Crops in your Garden

Practicing crop rotation is very crucial to reduce the plant diseases

and insects that attack your vegetable garden. Crop rotation

simply involves not planting crops of the same family in the

same section of the garden year after year.

Plant diseases and insects are liable to infect or be attracted to

plants of the same family. Some larvae, beetle, scab and etc.

will stay in the soil through the winter. Rotating your crop will keep

these from attacking your plants as quickly.


Some plants are natural deterrent to some diseases and

insects of other plants.. Garlic and onions are of beneficial use to

repel some insects and soil retained diseases.

The crop following another crop should be able to compliment the

soil and be of a beneficial use. Like planting a member of the

cabbage family to offset some of the diseases and insects that

attack potatoes, tomatoes and eggplant.

Replenish your soil by planting a crop that will replace the nutrients

removed by a crop of heavy feeders. Following sweet corn with peas

or beans will help rebuild and revitalize your soil and boost your yields.

Divide your garden into four equal sized sections. Decide which crops

are to be planted in each section. Now decide which section will follow

and compliment each other, and your garden.

Attacting Birds to your Garden and Yard

For a wonderful activity all year long, consider feeding wild birds and
attacting them to your yard/garden. The birds will especially appreciate
your efforts in winter and spring when natural food sources are scarce.
Providing food for birds not only helps the birds, but with all of the bird
activity and their bright colors and chatter it surely liven up an
otherwise drab winter backyard.

Just hanging out birdfeeders and filling them with birdseed may not
be enough to attract birds to your yard. Birds have additional needs besides food,
birds need water for drinking and bathing, along with nesting
spots and shelter from predators.

Maybe you can incorporate water feature in your landscape to
give the birds someting similar to a pond, stream or birdbath.
This would satisfy their need for water. Building a perch for them
to stand on while they get a drink would be a nice touch.
Birds can't drink frozen water so investing in a heating system
would be essential for them in cold climates.

Trees, shrubs and vines provide nesting places and hiding spots
if predators are nearby. Place a few birdhouses randomly to encourage
them to stay for awhile. From a bird's point of view, a yard
that is filled with a variety of both short and tall trees,
bushes, vines and brush piles is more attractive than a vast
expanse of grass punctuated by the occasional small tree. If
your yard isn't a haven for birds, it can easily be transformed
with the addition of suitable trees and shrubs.

Evergreens of all kinds make excellent cover for birds,
especially in winter when their dense foliage blocks the biting
wind. Plants that have fruit that persists throughout winter are
important food sources for birds. You might include bayberry,
hackberry, flowering crabapple, and juniper.

Plant sunflowers, coneflowers and black-eyed Susans, and allow
them to go to seed. These plants will attract goldfinches and
chickadees who will happily feast on the seeds and entertain you
with their cheerful songs and antics. Be sure to plant flowering
plants that will attract th ever popular hummingbirds.

Happy gardening!

One of Natures Insecticides

Bt, or Bacillus thuringeiensis, is a useful addition in the arsenal
against plant-eating insects. Bt is a naturally occurring bacteria
that is common all across the world, and early in the twentieth
century it was discovered to be an excellent form of insect control.

Bt became available to home gardeners in the 1950s but in recent
years new strains have been developed that attack an even wider
range of insects.

The kurstaki strain of Bt kills only caterpillars that feed on
leaves and needles. Bt kurstaki is especially useful for eliminating
corn earworms and those little green cabbage worms, that like to
infest broccoli, along with tent caterpillars and webworms that
damage trees and shrubs. Because Bt kurstaki will kill most any
type of caterpillar, it should be used carefully and sparingly if you have a
butterfly garden or seek to attract more butterflies to your garden.

Another type of Bt, the israelensis strain, will kill the larvae
of mosquitoes, black flies and fungus gnats. This is good news
for those of you who suffer through black fly season each summer!

The san diego strain of Bt is a good choice for controlling the
Coloradopotato beetle. Potato beetles can quickly reduce potato
plants to shreds, but Bt san diego stops the larvae in their tracks
before they can do significant damage.

Each strain of Bt is specific to certain pests. Bt israelensis and
san diego will not harm caterpillars, and likewise, Bt kurstaki will
not harm black flies or potato beetles. Bt acts by producing
proteins that react in the gut of the insect, paralyzing their
digestive system. The insects stop eating and quickly starve.

Bt is not harmful to plants, people or pets, although you should
avoid breathing the powder or spray when applying Bt to your plants.
Bt also degrades fairly quickly in sunlight, so it will not persist
in your garden. Some strains persist for less than 24 hours while
others remain viable for about a week.

Composting, It really pays

More and more people these days are composting, and for good
reason. Composting is a simple process which offers many benefits.

When you turn your garden refuse and kitchen scraps into compost,
you are creating fertilizer for your plants and conserving
landfill space. Compost will improve your soil, giving it the
ability to hold moisture and drain well. Even hard clay soil
will be improved by adding compost.

Composting can be as simple or as complex as you want it to be.
Compost bins and tumblers can be purchased or you can make your
own, or simply leave your compost materials in a pile without
a bin.

To make compost, you'll need a good mix of "brown" and "green"
material. Brown materials are things like dried leaves, coffee
grounds, shredded paper and straw. Green materials are grass
clippings, fresh garden refuse and kitchen scraps. Add the brown
and green ingredients in layers.

Manure is also a good addition to compost, but manure only from
herbivores should be used. Manure contains a great
deal of nitrogen and also beneficial microbes that will help the
composting process. Manure makes a great fertilizer, but it
should be composted before adding it to the garden because fresh
manure is so strong or "hot" that it will burn tender plants.

A compost pile will heat up and cook more quickly if it is kept
moist. Compost should be as moist as a sponge that has been
wrung out. Too much or too little moisture will slow the
decomposition process. A compost pile that is working properly
will feel warm or hot inside the pile. If the temperature inside
the pile is no warmer than the air temperature, the pile needs
more green material and perhaps more moisture.

Air circulation is also important for a compost pile. A compost
pile that is regularly mixed or turned will decompose much faster
than one that is never turned. But given enough time, even a
compost pile that is never turned will eventually decompose.

Concerned about the smell of a compost pile or worried that it
will attract rodents? Simply bury fresh materials in the middle
of the pile or cover the smelly material with some soil. Burying
the material in the pile will add some needed air circulation,
and the addition of soil will also include some helpful microbes.

Finished compost will look like good black soil and can be added
liberally to your garden. Make you own compost for your garden
and you will soon understand why it is called black gold.

Your garden wiil love you for every pound of compost you add,
and will show it in beautiful flowers and vegatables.

Happy Gardening!!!

Pruning Grape Vines

If you want your grape vine to produce an abundance of
really good fruit, then you have to properly prune your
grape vines in late winter.

1. Grape vines should be tied to a wire trellis during the
growing season so they get plenty of sunlight and air circulation.

2. Grape wood more than 2 years old will not produce fruit
so when pruning, all of the old wood should be removed.

3. Vine growth from the previous growing season should be
left, but only enough to cover the wires on your grape trellis.

4. If your grape trellis has two wires, then two nice vines
should be left on each side of the plant so all of the wires
have grape vines attached to them.

5. You should also leave two sets of replenishing vines on
each side of the plant. The replenishing vines should only
have two or three buds each. These replenishing vines are
left to produce new grape vines for the following season.

6. Each winter you remove the old wood, tie the new wood
to the trellis, and leave two more sets of replenishing vines

Fall Rose Plant Care

Proper care of rose plants in the fall will help ensure that
your plants come back strong and healthy next spring.

Roses love the warm days and cool nights in the fall and often
put out their best blooms for fall enjoyment. Fall weather
encourages the plants to form more perfect blossoms, but the
weather can also encourage blackspot, one of the most common
rose problems. Blackspot can defoliate a rose plant, and a
plant that loses its leaves too soon will struggle to survive
through winter. Maintain a regular schedule of fungicide
sprays for your roses until the plants go dormant and drop
their leaves naturally.

Cold climate gardeners should stop fertilizing their roses
in early September. No matter where you live, a general rule
for roses is to stop applying fertilizers one month prior to
the first frost date for your area, or a month before the
deciduous trees typically drop their leaves.

Pruning your roses will encourage new growth and will also
cause the sap to run in the stems. Tender new growth is
vulnerable to winter damage, so rose plants should not be
pruned in the fall. During the growing season, the spent
blossoms should be deadheaded often, and this will also
encourage new growth. But stop deadheading spent blossoms
about a month before the first frost. This will allow the
remaining blooms to develop into rosehips and signal the plant to
prepare for winter and go dormant. Go ahead and cut a few of the
more beautiful blossoms to enjoy indoors if you want, but try to
limit any pruning or cutting of the plant in the fall.

Transplanting Perennials

Are you considering to transplant some of your garden
perennials? The thought about moving a favorite plant from
one spot to another might make you nervous, but don't let it
give you jitters.It's really a simple process.

Timing is key to successfully transplanting perennials.
Here's a general rule of thumb that will help you determine
the best time to transplant any perennial:

If the plant blooms in the spring, move it in the fall - early
September or later.If a plant blooms in the summer or fall,
move it in the spring.

When transplanting in the spring, start when the plant's new
growth begins to appear so you'll know where and how much to
dig. Plants that are being transplanted in the fall can be
cut back by half just prior to moving. This will make the
move easier on you and the plant.

The first step in transplanting is to prepare the site or location
for the plant. Clear the area of any weeds or grass, dig a hole
appropriate for the plant and add some compost to the soil.

Now let's go back and dig up the plant. I know, this
is the part that can be scary. Just be calm, you can do it! Start by
digging all around the plant with a sharp spade, then slip
the spade beneath the clump and lift the plant and its
rootball out of the ground.

Next, plant the perennial in its location. Always replant
your plants at the same depth they were at originally.
Refill the hole with loose soil and tamp it down a bit to
eliminate any air pockets. Then give your plant a good drink
to help it settle in, and keep the soil moist - but not soggy
- as the plant reestablishes itself. A transplanted plant may
look a bit bedraggled for awhile, but it will come back the next
season strong and happy. A treatment of root stimulator would
be a very good idea. Be sure to watch your tranplants closely, and
maintain adequate moisture until the plants shows that is
sustaining itself.

There are a few perennials that simply do not like to be moved.
Peonies and tree peonies, bleeding hearts, foxtail lilies,
butterfly weed and goatsbeard do not like to be transplanted.
Move these plants only when it is absolutely necessary. If you
must move a peony, do so in late fall after a hard freeze while
the plant is dormant.

Transplanting trees and shrubs

You have to get your transplanting done early!

Spring transplanting tips go like this. If the plant is sleeping
(dormant), then yes, it's fine to move it now. But if they plant
just woke up, lots of new growth, then no, you waited too long
and if you move it when it's all flushed out with new growth
you will seriously damage the plant and possibly kill it.

For the most part you can transplant trees and shrubs from
late fall (early winter) until early spring. During the growing
season it's risky business.


When deciduous trees and shrubs start leafing out.That signals
the end of the transplanting season.
Once they leaf out, you should not dig them or
severe their roots.

If you live in one of the warmer zones you must do your transplanting
even earlier.

You can plant trees and shrubs at just about any time of the
year once they are dug or potted. It's the digging process that
causes the damage if you do it at the wrong time of the year.

The same holds true for evergreens, but with evergreens you
can start transplanting them earlier in the fall. You do not have
to wait until they go completely dormant like you do with
deciduous plants.

Git it planted! and Watch 'er grow!

Homemade Garden Insecticides

How do you prevent your garden from being a 24-hour diner for
every insect that passes through the neighborhood? There are
any number of chemical products on the market that will kill
insects, but many gardeners are hesitant to use strong
chemicals on their plants.

There are very effective organic insecticides and repellents
available these days, and in a pinch you can make your own
natural insect repellant.

Most insects prefer a bland diet, so by making your garden
spicy you can encourage insects to dine elsewhere. A hot
pepper or garlic spray works great as a repellant and can
actually prevent insects - and even hungry rabbits - from
nibbling on your plants.

To make hot pepper spray, toss a couple of hot peppers, such
as cayennes or habaneros, in a blender with about a cup of water.
Puree the mixture, strain out any solids, then add enough water
to make a gallon of concentrated hot pepper juice.

To use the hot pepper spray, mix a quarter cup of the concentrate
with a gallon of water and a tablespoon or two of liquid soap.
The soap will help the spray stick to the plants.

To make a garlic spray, roughly chop one or two garlic bulbs,
place them in a quart jar and pour boiling water over the garlic,
enough to fill the jar. Close the jar and let it sit overnight.
Strain out the chunks of garlic and add the garlic water to your
sprayer along with a few drops of liquid soap. Leftover garlic
water can be kept frozen for later use.

A good place to buy liquid soap for this purpose would be a health
food store. Do not use a detergent or a heavily scented soap as
these can be harmful to plants. Once you've made your insect
repellant concoction, test it on a few leaves first before spraying
your plants.

The hot pepper and garlic smell will be strong when first applied
but will fade, and your flowers and vegetables won't take on their
odor or taste. The spray should be reapplied every week or two, or
after a rainfall.

Welcome to Garden Wise & Otherwise

Greetings to all gardeners and plant people of all kinds.

My name is Terry Lamb, and I operate a Greenhouse and Nursery business in Tishomingo, Oklahoma.

I will be posting garden tips and ideas each week. Also I will include questions and answers from my customers.

I hope we will all have some fun with this site.

See you soon.